Another wine that flirts with perfection, the 2020 Ermitage Le Méal comes from the steep, south-facing slope right in the heart of Hermitage hill. All destemmed and brought up in the standard 20% new barrels and demi-muids, it has a more tight, straight, almost reserved profile than usual yet doesn't lack for density, mid-palate depth, structure, and concentration. Blackberries, redcurrants, spice, dried flowers, and loamy earth all define the aromatics, and it's full-bodied, has ripe, polished tannins, and a great finish. It needs to be forgotten for at least 5-7 years but will evolve for three decades.