Rolle (or Vermintino) isn't viewed as an indispensable variety, nor would most wine snobs call it “noble,” whatever that might mean. But if you’ve traveled anywhere along the majestic and mountainous Mediterranean coast from Marseilles to Bocca di Magra you will be familiar with the vibrantly floral wines, both red and white. Rolle, or Vermentino as it is known in its birthplace in Liguria, is a riotously pleasurable variety ideally suited for all things summer, beaches, vacations, grilling, sea spray, and seafood. It is floral in its youth but takes on a pleasant resinous and herbal note with a little age but always has plenty of grapefruit flavors and a salty minerality—not noble according to the snobs but downright fun to drink.
